In the shadows of Mt Buffalo

With February here, and only just over a month till the Alpine Challenge 100km, I am using every bit of free time to head to our Australian peaks and get as much training, playing, hiking, and exploring into my legs as possible. 

This past weekend I headed down south again on what is becoming a very familiar 700km drive from Sydney to Bright. I had 3 days off so the plan was to get in some quality hills and then race the Mt Buller Skyrun on the Sunday. 

Friday - Mt Buffalo 

The climb up to Mt Buffalo across large granite slabs, and up on the alpine plateau is fast becoming one of my favorite places to be. The colors, spectacular view points, unique vegetation, and meandering trails keep you wanting to run and explore well past sunset. Recommended is either starting at the Eurobin picnic ground and taking the Big Walk trail up to the plateau, or driving up higher to either Mackey's Lookout, or onto the plateau and accessing the trails from the Chalet carpark.  

The start of my hike, on the Big Walk Trail just beyond Mackey's Lookout:

View across the granite to the Australian Alps in the distance:

The Big Walk trail:

 

A lone snow gum trying to survive the harsh alpine climate:

 

Views towards the Australian Alps, Mt Bogong with its summit in the clouds:

 

View down into the valley from the Gorge

The Mt Buffalo Chalet, now closed and waiting for a new owner:

Boardwalk trail meandering through a little glen of sphagnum moss:

Lake Catani, a great place to finish a run and soak the legs and body:

On the Caldwell Galleries trail that takes you through a labyrinth of granite:

The ever changing mountain weather fast closing in, ghostly snow gum skeletons in the foreground:

The Mt Buffalo plateau:

The view of Lake Catani from The Monolith:

 

Saturday - Clear Spot, Bright

Saturday called for hills. Lots of them. A friend living in the beautiful little town of Bright recommended the hike up to Clear Spot (~1000m high). The trail is a fire break running straight up a ridge through commercial foresting areas. It is exposed, steep, rocky and perfect for training. Access is from Hargraves St in Bright, although there are other trails (of varying gradient) leading up to the top.

Last climb for the day done:

Nothing beats doing a little power yoga when you are at the top of the climb:

With training done, I could enjoy the blackberries on the way down:

Sunday - Mt Buller Skyrun

Read about the race here.

Sharing the Surf Coast Century

Every time an ultra runner races, they are alone. Alone with their thoughts, what their body gives them, and how the race will unfold on the day. The journey is shared with other runners, and sometimes even with a superb crew of family, friends, and spectators. But at the end of the day, the runner is a solo artist; a virtuoso executing his plan: enjoying, battling, despairing, loving, hating, laughing, hallucinating, powering, finishing.

After my race in Switzerland (the Salomon MountainMan Ultra), I am heading home to Australia. I am really looking forward to all those special, every day things that makes home home: A morning swim in a salty, rolling sea, excellent coffee, an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, the smell of the Australian flora. There is also so much happening - Matt Cooper's Ultra Made trail camp, a road trip south to Melbourne, and running again on home turf in the inaugural Surf Coast Century.

What excited me even more is that I will be running in a TEAM! This is a first for me, and one I am really looking forward to experiencing. I decided that after 3 months of some big distances on my body, and with only 2-3 weeks in between to physically and mentally recover, running a shorter course and sharing the experience with a friend would be perfect. With the Olympics just gone, I was also inspired by all the team camaraderie. Sometimes, sharing an amazing, indescribable event with a friend can take you deeper, and push you harder.

Picture: Michael Dodge, Source: Quest Newspaper

My team mate for this event is Samantha Gash, an ambassador for the event, and a pretty incredible woman. Sam has just finished a solo desert crossing of the Simpson Desert, not for personal gratification, but to raise money for a charity close to her heart. Read more about it here. Teaming up with Sam also means that she will cover the section of the trail that resonates with her strengths (the first 50km of more beach/sand running), while I will get to stretch my legs on the more bush/forested trails in the second half of the race. 

Sam during her Crossing the Simpson run

Some of my Salomon team mates will also be competing as a team, meaning that those not running will be out on the course, supporting, cheering, and giving energy to the other runners. Thinking about this experience, and sharing it with both the Salomon gang, and also with Sam, led me to find this quote:

"One piece of log creates a small fire, adequate to warm you up,

add just a few more pieces to blast an immense bonfire,

large enough to warm up your entire circle of friends;

Needless to say that individuality counts but team work dynamites."

(Master Jin Kwon - South Korean Martial Arts Master)

Running and recovery on the Romantic Rhinesteig

After my trip to Norway I returned to Germany. After the colder weather, the warm sun in Germany was healing. I was ready to take some time for recovery and for sightseeing, and started investigating what was around the area of Frankfurt. Although I have traveled in the area several times, I had never been to the section of the Rhine river know as the "Romantic Rhine." A UNESCO protected area, it is famous for its abundance of castles, vineyards, and quaint medieval towns. Even better, on either side of the Rhine runs a network of well-marked trails know as the Rhinesteig. These trails are incredible: they run through deep forest, small towns, fields, valleys, vineyards, and open rocky trail high above the river. 

I packed my Salomon SLAB pack (enough space to fit a change of clothes, rainjacket, travel towel, thongs, toiletries, camera, some snacks, ID, bank card, and kindle). I booked accommodation in a youth hostel in the town of Bacharach (a midway point from my start and finish point). I was totally smittened with this hostel because it is located within a 14th century castle - I just had to sleep there! 

The plan was simple: Run and enjoy the trails, enjoy a little culture, stop when I want, walk when I want, and if I was tired I could always take the train. I just love travelling light, exploring on foot, and seeing and feeling more of the beautiful nature alongside the river than I would if I journeyed by car. Below are some photos from my 3 day trip.

My first glimpse of the Rhine from the town of Bingen where I started my trip:

Arriving at Burg Rheinstein:

The view from a terrace inside Burg Rheinstein:

Along the trail, on my way to the town of Bacharach:

A view of the Rhine river:

Refreshments and map reading at Burg Sooneck:

Arriving in Bacharach, directions up to my castle accomodation:

The quaint roof-scape of Bacharach:

My accommodation, Burg Stahleck, sitting high above the town:

On the run, day 2:

Burg Gutenfels:

It started pouring. I kept runnning. I got really soaked:

The town of Kaub, viewed from a ferry I took to cross the river:

Twilight from my castle acccomodation:

A misty morning on day 3, the town of Bacharach still sleeping:

Burg Stahleck:

Journeys: From here (Germany) to here (Norway).

I'm travelling light this time. I've been in Germany visiting some dear friends of mine, to enjoy sunshine and wine, and to run amongst the vineyards. 

Amidst the vines of Weingut Dautermann on my last visit in 2009:

From Germany, I am flying to Norway. YES! Last year, racing at the Ultra Trail Mont Blanc, I met a Norwegian runner and journalist who invited me to come to his country, and to race in a small race with a big heart. 

The Rallarvegen (Image courtesy of Daniel Novello):

The Rallarsvegslopet is a 2-day mountain race that immediately captivated me. The race is centered around the station town of Finse, a small collection of weathered buildings that can only be accessed by rail. The runners all stay together in the same hotel, Hotel Finse 1222 (a reference to the elevation of the train station), and run a cumulative distance just over 80km on the famous Rallarvegen, a construction road that was used to haul the materials needed to build the Bergen Railway line. 

Hotel Finse 1222 (Photo courtesy of Kim Mallady):

Now, over a 100 years later, the road attracts over 20,000 cyclists in the summer, and even more importantly, acts as a means to transport people through the most beautiful, rugged and mythical landscapes. Imagine running, surrounded by a unique alpine climate (home to Europe's largest reindeer stock), ancient geology, mountains reflecting the movement of ice millions of years ago, wild valleys, waterfalls, and glaciers. 

An alpine wonderland (Image courtesy of Michael Mortensen):

Following my race in Italy I have been resting and relaxing, more than running. I have found the change of pace nice, to listen to my body (and my blackened toe nails) telling me to take it easy. The race on the weekend will be one for enjoying the views, enjoying the company of the other runners, and for testing how well I have recovered following my adventures in the Dolomites! 

Day 1 (Flaam - Finse) profile:

Day 2 (Finse- Haugastol) profile:

Reflections on the 2012 Ultra Trail Lavaredo

Everything about Italy warmed me: the intense heat of the midday sun, the incredibly beautiful mountains around me, the flavorsome food, the people I met. I am not sure if it was this Italian effect, but going into this year's Ultra Trail Lavaredo, I felt so relaxed, so comfortable, so at ease. I was camping about 2km out of town, meaning I was away from the build up and increased hype that goes along with race day. I had no internet, no phone contact. I spent the day lazing under a tree enjoying the simplicity of pre-race resting. 

Familiarization with the route:

When the sun finally dropped behind the mountains, it was time to walk to Cortina. I dressed for the race fairly lightly as it was a balmy evening. I hoped this warmth was an indicator of the temperatures up through the mountain passes we would cross during the night. In town there was barely time for a quick espresso and head torch double-check before runners were summoned to the starting line. As with the Ultra Trail Mont Blanc, there was a certain solemness pre-race. Beautiful operatic music played, runners stilled and focused on the immense task ahead, and then we started.

Starting line (Photo courtesy of thenorthfacejournal.com): 

I must admit that the whole race is a blur, and only certain parts really stand out. From the beginning I was running very conservatively. I knew the elevation I had to cover (5740m), I knew the terrain would be technical, I knew I had a day of running through 30 degrees +. As we ran through the town of Cortina towards the first trail, I let some of the women go ahead of me. I kept my pace steady and controlled. 

Race profile: 

The first climb to Col Rosa (about 500m+) allowed me to settle in to a pace where I passed a few of the women. I really tried not to make this the focus though, and instead just kept a steady rhythm, watched my HR, and enjoyed! The downhill that followed really allowed me to stretch the legs a little, and to settle into a pattern that would continue for the whole race: up-down-up-down. At this stage of the race I was using primarily liquid nutrition (produced by Infinit Nutrition). 

At various points during the night I ran with a few groups, usually for a few minutes, and then either they would pick up the pace, or I would. Camraderie was high! I remember arriving at Lake Misurina, the mist hanging heavily onto the water in the pre-dawn light. I remember the slow lightening of the sky as I started the climb to the 48km checkpoint at Refugio Auronzo, located just below the fabled Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The climb passed through lush green meadows tucked between the rocky shoulders of the surrounding mountains. At this stage I was alone, and it was eerie to be in these misty valleys, early in the morning, alone with my thoughts and breath. 

Morning Approaching:

Refugio Auronzo at 48km, Tre Cimes di Lavaredo behind:

Drop bags:

My transition at the checkpoint was fast: I grabbed some more liquid nutrition (pre-mixed into a bottle), picked up some gels and honeystinger wafers, ate some soup and continued on. My highlight was when the startled volunteers asked me "you are running in a skirt?" I found out later at the presentation that the volunteers were all very appreciative of the fact that I was running in a skirt. It was so "feminine."

Running around the flank of the Tre cimes:

Famous view of the Tre Cimes di Lavaredo:

The descent into the Val Della Rienza:

The next section was a blur. I just remember the final flat dirt road that seemed to go on forever to the aid station at Cimabanche. 

From Cimabanche there was another 500m+ climb through the Val de Gotres to Forc Lerosa, a mountain pass at 2000m. By this stage the day was warming, and I was making use of all the little streams to refill my water bottle or simply to wash my face and wet the top of my head. 

My memory sharpens for the monstrous climb through the Val Travenanzes up to the Forcella Col dei Bos (a climb of almost 1000m). The terrain was beautiful. A glacial formed valley, blindingly white rocks forming the path (but also reflecting the heat), lush alpine meadows filled with bright flowers in other sections. We were literally following the path of an ancient glacier up into the mountains. This section was tough. I was hot, by now my feet were aching from the constant harassment of rocky terrain, the climbed seemed to go on forever.

View down the valley:

View back to Forcella Col Dei Bos (we crossed through the pass between the rocks):

The descent down to the aid station at 94km was a clear example of how much energy and inspiration people give you. By now I was the only woman around, and the field had spread so that there were not many men around either. I was hurting, and a french man picked me up, encouraged me to run with him down to the aid station, and by following his steps, focusing on breathing, rather than pain, I arrived stronger because of his energy.

Descent down to the aid station at Pian dei Menis (94km):

The next 25km hurt. It was a section of deceptively steep ascents and descents that tested the legs, heart, mind and spirit. Each ascent I just focused on the fact that I could do it, that I was doing it, and that I was closer to finishing. I took in a lot of water with nuun ( the ginger flavour was so, so, so tasty at this point), as well as red bull and coke. I enjoyed the company of the 50km runners out on the trail as well, passing me most of the time, but encouraged by their enthusiasm.

One of the small pitches up that tested mind and body:

Spectacular day, a small refuge hidden below the mountains:

One of the refuges below the Cinque Torri (another famous attraction in the Dolomites):

I ran the last 10km with 2 wonderful Italians, Gabriele and Simonetta. They were racing the 50km, but pretty much paced me to the finish, down the tricky 1000m descent resembling a ski-run to the finish line at Cortina. Again, running with these guys exemplified the spirit and camraderie of trail running, and why it is such a special sport.

Gabriele and myself (photos courtesy of Simonetta Lazzarotto):

I finished the race behind some super strong female runners, inspired by their strength. I finished in 4th place, in 19:18hrs.

Female 120km presentation:

Female Top 5 podium:

Photos courtesy of Alessandro Regnano (sourced here).